Asian Painted Frog
Common Names
Asian painted frog, Chubby frog, Asian bullfrog, banded bullfrog
Species
Kaloula pulchra
Size
Adults measure 2 to 3 inches (5 cm to 7.6 cm) in length.
Appearance
Round in shape and with a typical microhylid body structure, Asian painted frogs are attractively patterned with two cream colored lateral stripes that run down their dorsum. This light coloration extends onto the head and face, and contrasts with a darker brown on the rest of the dorsum and flanks below the light stripes. The ventral side is uniform white to gray, except for in males that may have a darkened vocal sac after calling.
Distribution, Habitat and Behavior
Asian painted frogs are found throughout southeast Asia. They are adaptable, living both around human settlements such as courtyards and gardens as well as in agricultural areas and in forest and along forest edges. Although during the day they are not active and hide burrowed or in shelter, at night they awaken and move around, even climbing trees or taller vegetation. When threatened painted frogs fill with air and may even secrete a sticky white noxious substance.
Availability
They are commonly available through pet stores and dealers. Captive breeding is rare and almost all painted frogs found for sale are caught in the wild. For this reason, examine frogs carefully before purchase to ensure they are in good condition. They should respond to being disturbed by hopping away or puffing up and inflating themselves with air Avoid lethargic individuals or those with marks from transit such as small abrasions or rubs, as well as frogs that show signs of redness on their skin.
Housing
Asian painted frogs do not require a large amount of space to live well in captivity. A standard 10 gallon aquarium that measures 20 inches long by 10 inches wide by 12 inches high (50 cm by 25 cm by 30 cm) is large enough to house one frog for its entire life. A tight-fitting screen cover is essential to prevent escapes because they are fairly good climbers, and if provided with arboreal space in a larger enclosure they can be observed using it at night.
A substrate that holds moisture, allows the frog to burrow, and is easily passed if swallowed works well. Coconut husk fiber or other safe soil blend is usually the best option. Avoid using soils that contain perlite or vermiculite. Other possible substrates include cypress mulch or leaf litter. Moist paper towels, foam rubber, or sphagnum moss can be used in temporary housing, such as a quarantine enclosure. Gravel, sand, or small bark chippings should be avoided because they can easily be swallowed and cause health issues.
Furnish the enclosure with a hide spot or two, such as artificial plants, cork bark, or driftwood. Live plants can be used, although they may be uprooted when painted frogs burrow. To prevent this, it may be helpful to keep plants in their pots rather than planting them directly in the substrate.
Temperature and Humidity
A wide range of temperatures are tolerated by Asian painted frogs. During the day, the temperature can remain between 68°F and 78°F (20°C to 26°C). At night, the temperature should decrease. Occasional warm days or cool nights usually don’t present a problem for healthy frogs. The humidity level in the cage can play a large role in the activity of captive Asian painted frogs. In the wild, an increase in humidity and moisture initiates breeding, and often in captivity male frogs will begin calling when the same happens in the terrarium. Misting part of the cage with water a few times a week or even daily will help maintain moisture and stimulate activity.
Water
Provide a dish of water large enough for your Asian painted frog to soak in. Change the water daily or when it appears dirty. If tap water is used, a tap water conditioner should be added to remove chlorine, chloramines, and heavy metals. Alternatively, reverse osmosis (RO) water can be made safe for amphibians by adding aquarium products designed to add minerals and reconstitute pure water sources.
Diet
Asian painted frogs have a large appetite and accept most commercially available feeder insects, such as crickets, earth worms, silk worms, wax worms, and mealworms. Crickets should make up the majority of their diet, with other food items substituted for crickets every few feedings. Feeding three to six food items every two or three days works well for adult frogs. Juveniles should be fed more frequently. High quality vitamin and mineral supplements should be used to coat the food offered to adult frogs every two to four feedings, while juveniles should have their food supplemented at every meal.
I bought a chubby frog about 4 days ago. When I was placing her in her tank I noticed she had blue cloudy eyes which seemed unusual. I have provided all of the care needed in the tank. She burrowed down for the first two days and then finally came out. Since then, she has refused to eat. Her eyes are still a cloudy blue. She doesn’t seem to be in any pain or showing any signs of distress, but her not eating mixed with her eyes has me uneasy. Any advice? I haven’t been able to find any exotic pets in my area, but also am unsure if I am just over-reacting.
Cloudy eyes are not a good sign, but they probably are not a result of your care but instead the conditions the frog was being kept in before you purchased it. There are different reasons frogs can develop cloudy eyes, but a common one is a bacterial infection. It takes a vet experienced with amphibians to diagnose this kind of health problem, but if it is some kind of bacterial issue they can prescribe antibiotics that you soak the frog in as treatment. However, usually the underlying reason a frog develops this kind of health issue is that the conditions it was being kept in were not great–for example a cold, wet, dirty enclosure at the pet store before you bought it, or at the animal dealer before the pet store received it. That said, there are other reasons frogs develop cloudy eyes and a veterinarian needs to diagnose the ailment before trying any treatment. The good news is that sometimes if you correct the environmental problem the frog’s immune system and fight off things on its own, so keep the frog in the correct temperature range, not too wet (or dry), and keep stress to a minimum, and maybe the frog will start eating and recover on its own.
I want to use a jump start thermostat for my future frog but im scared that when he burrows he will burn him self on the heated glass and i seen somewhere that its not recommended is it safe to use or what else could i use?
You could try just a light. Asian Painted Frogs do not need to be kept very warm and if the room the frog is in is already 65-70F you might only need to add a light to warm the enclosure. Set everything up and monitoring the temperature for a while before getting the frog to check.
Do chubby frogs retain water? I’ve had my girl about a month and a half now, she’s been doing really well and eating all the crickets I put in there. I got her from a reputable breeder and she seems really healthy. I see her in her water bowl a lot and she tends to empty it within a day or two, I assume from just tracking it out with her when she climbs out. I’ve noticed recently she seems to have almost “ballooned” up. Her sides are really squishy, she doesn’t seem uncomfortable or any less active than she has been. She gets calcium dusted crickets, her warm spot is between 80-85 at all times, and she has moist but not super wet substrate. She’s currently on coco fibre. She seems to almost wet the substrate herself and stay where she feels comfortable. I’m just worried about her suddenly looking so puffy. Is it possible she’s just filled out and gained weight? She seemed a tiny bit under when I first got her, I think the travel caused her to stop eating for a little bit when I first got her. Overall she seems pretty active and healthy, am I just overthinking it? I have some pictures of when I first got her and what she looks like now as well.
Chubby frogs can look “ballooned up” for a number of reasons. When disturbed, they will make themselves look as big as possible to potential predators (like people) so if you are picking the frog up or disturbing it your frog might just be filling itself with air to make it look big and threatening. On the other hand, if you observe the frog at night when it is active and it still looks bloated or full of water, there might be a health issue going on. Renal failure can cause frogs to have difficulty regulating the water in their body, and they can become bloated. There are many causes for bloat, but sometimes bloat is caused by an underlying bacterial infection. Usually bloat is related to poor husbandry, for example if the frog is in a too cold, wet, and/or dirty environment, but sometimes frogs can become bloated even when kept in good conditions and for other reasons than a bacterial infection. Doublecheck the care you are providing, especially temperature and water quality. Make sure the temperature where the frog spends its time is not dropping below the mid-high 60s at night and that it is warming up into the mid-high 70s during the day. You will have to move a thermometer down to the ground near where the frog spends time to check. For water, make sure you are using an amphibian safe water source. Straight tap water usually is harmful to amphibians, so you need to treat it with a water condition to remove chlorine/chloramines before use. Hopefully it is not a health problem and maybe the frog is just inflating itself with air to look big instead. Good luck.
I believe that my chubby male had a seizure and had permanent neurological issues. I picked him up as I usually do and he straightened all legs and got tense for a few moments and was twitching. Excreted the white sticky stuff I guess bc he was scared. Since then his back legs did not function. From what I’ve read, I don’t think he was getting enough vitamin / calcium supplements from the dusted crickets. He stopped eating and appeared in pain so I had him euthanized. I want another but don’t want the same thing to happen. How do you know they are getting enough supplements? I have a 10 gal aquarium, coconut substrate, mist daily, water bowl, usually 75 degrees. He was about 5 months old. Suggestions?
Interesting, sorry to hear that. It’s hard to know why your frog had those symptoms. A calcium deficiency can cause tremors/shaking in reptiles and amphibians but so can many other things. If you were using a powdered nutritional supplement with calcium and vitamin D3 in it on food before feeding the problem was almost certainly was not a calcium deficiency. To avoid nutritional problems, just make sure to offer a varied diet (crickets, earthworms, soldier fly larvae, etc.), coat the foods in a quality nutritional supplement before feeding (Repashy Calcium Plus is a good high-quality brand to use), and if you want to go all out–for crickets feed them well for a day or two beforehand with lots of fresh fruits and veggies.
My first guess is that the frog was actually already suffering from some systemic infection and when you picked it up it was pushed over the edge from the stress, and/or maybe your hands also may have had a contaminant on them or something too (for example, cooking oil, leftover soap or sanitizer, etc.) Many kinds of bacterial infections can cause or show up as uncoordinated movements and tremors in pet amphibians, very similar to what you describe. Bacterial infections are probably more common than calcium deficiencies, especially if you were supplementing its food. Usually they develop when there is an underlying husbandry issue, for example an overly wet/dirty substrate or cold conditions. Another option would be some kind of accumulation of a contaminant in the enclosure or exposure to some harmful substance, for example, if your home was treated for pests and a pesticide was sprayed in the room where the frog was kept one day that could cause real neurological issues. Or, maybe something related to water quality as a final possibility? But, all in all, if I had to bet I would think some kind of systemic infection. If you acquired the frog in the last month, it is completely possible it was already not in great shape when purchased and was already suffering from some unknown ailment, which just got worse until the end. That said, if you had kept the frog for a long time (6+ months) and never once added a calcium supplement to its food, then maybe it could be diet-related like you suggest (but that is not my first guess).
Thank you so much for your input. Do you have a place that you would recommend to get another chubby? Your go-to? Thanks!
I would check with a local pet store store that specializes in reptiles and amphibians, that way you can see the frog first before picking a new one. Check to make sure it behaves normally (they should be asleep during the day unless disturbed and most often hiding or burrowed in the substrate), its eyes are clear, there is no redness on its limbs or belly, and that it is not underweight. Check also the conditions it is being kept in. If it is mixed with other kinds of frogs or in a smelly/dirty enclosure, pass on it. You could also ask to see it eat and if it eats in front of you that is a pretty good sign too (but it might not either, and that is not a bad sign). If it appears lethargic, thin, exhibits strange behavior, or has any unusual coloration then try another place. Best of luck,
Devin
Hi everyone, and Jill Bordelon. I have a female chubby frog and I can understand what’s wrong with your chubby frog. In this case, the most likely possibility is that the floor of the cage is too slippery for the frog’s hind legs to stick. For a long time its hind legs will be unable to move. You can try physical therapy for the chubby frog by stretching its hind legs. For the floor of the barn, you should put something rough. You should also pay attention to the water source without harmful impurities, such as chlorine in tap water. Hope this information can help you and it’s not too late. I don’t speak English, I use Google Translate.
I got two chubby frogs in a 12*12*12 cage. Is it too small for them? I don’t think they’ve been to the water pool, because the water is so clean. They always stay in the soil, never see they’re eating, but I can see that the numbers of crickets decrease. They eat $4 crickets a week.
Yes, that’s a little too small for a permanent home. Although during the day you probably won’t see them and they will be in the soil, try checking in at night with a flashlight after it has been dark for about an hour and I bet they will be out and climbing around. For keeping them long-term go for a larger terrarium, something closer to the size of a standard 20-gallon aquarium or larger, or one of the 18″ x 18″ x18″ terrariums.
Are Chubby Frogs good frogs for beginner amphibian owners to start with? I really like them and want to get one, but I have very little experience in owning and taking care of frogs/toads except for the ones I caught as a child.
Yes, they are pretty hardy. The only downside is that they are always wild-caught so occasionally they might not be in good condition when you buy them. Other good beginner frogs are White’s tree frogs and fire-bellied toads, but chubby frogs would be a good first frog to keep too.
My chubby frog has been relatively active during the daytime and has been above the ground and just sits in one corner. Doesn’t seem interested in mealworms. Crickets are available for him all the time and they do seem to disappear. How do I make sure he’s healthy and happy?
The most important part of their care is their environment. Keep the temperature in a safe range, ensure there is a clean and safe source of water, and make sure the substrate is not too wet/dry and you should be good. For food, you can rely on crickets most of the time. Earthworms are good to use too. You can put them in a little dish at night so they don’t burrow down away from the frog. Remember to use a quality nutritional supplement like Repashy Calcium Plus on food items before feeding. Enjoy the frog.
When would a chubby frog be seen as an adult rather than a juvenile? Great care sheet btw 😀
Amphibia Web (https://amphibiaweb.org/species/2157) has adult males with a snout to vent length of 54-70mm and females 57-75mm so if your frog is about 2 inches or more from the tip of its nose to the end of its body it should be adult or close to an adult. Hope this helps.
I have a Kaloula baleata (AKA: Flower Pot Toad, Muller’s Narrowmouth Toad, Brown Bullfrog, Black Burrowing Frog, Gong Frog, Javanese Bullfrog)
They are often mistaken for Asian Painted Frogs, but they lack the bands going down the side. Flower Pot Toads also have a distinct pink/orange coloring where their appendages connect to their body.
I’ve been DESPERATELY trying to find good information on how to care for my lil’ toad. I purchased her at a reptile convention and was told she was a Chubby Frog. Upon determining she’s a Flower Pot Toad, I’ve struggled to find much. Most of what I can find seems to come from the same two or three sources….
If you have any knowledge of this species, I would be SOOOOO grateful. I’ve been using Asian Painted Frogs information, but I’m only guessing it’s comparable.
Either way, this site is such a wonderful resource. Thank you!!
I’m not familiar with Kaloula baleata. I poked around online and I would guess that similar captive conditions to K. pulchra would be fine. My other thought is that it could actually be K. pulchra with an unusual pattern since the range of the two species doesn’t overlap and it is unlikely only one individual of a species would be imported (though not impossible, or that there was a large shipment of K. baleata mislabeled as pulchra). Without seeing your frog, the two species look very similar and sometimes the pattern is not a reliable way to differentiate between two similar species since there can be a great deal of individual variation in coloration. The other reason I was thinking about this is that the K. pulchra imported to the U.S. the last decade or so were almost exclusively exported from Vietnam, a country where K. baleata isn’t found, so it would be kind of weird for one to come in accidentally, although still possible, for instance, if frogs were transported first from Vietnam to an animal dealer in Indonesia before the U.S. and then that dealer threw in some locally caught baleata to fill an order… Regardless of what species it is, you can probably care for it as described on this page. Enjoy keeping the frog,
Devin
We have had our Asian chubby toad now for almost 20 years and he has always been fine, no health problems. We noticed out of no where that he seems to have an infection behind one of his eyes. I have a picture I could share as well. None of our local vets in Michigan specialize in exotic pets and we are really worried about him. Any ideas what this could be and what we can be doing for him?
Wow, 20 years is a long time and speaks to the quality of care you have provided. At that age, your frog is going to be more susceptible to health problems than a younger animal. Without diagnosis from a veterinarian, it probably won’t be possible to treat the infection safely with medication, so instead, I think the best thing to do is ensure the care conditions you provide are the best they can be and hope the frog’s immune system fights it off. Make sure the enclosure is clean (new substrate, change water dish daily, etc.) and keep it on the warmer side towards the mid 70’s or low 80’s. You might need to adjust heating by adding a low wattage (15-40 watt probably unless the tank is very tall) red light if the tank is too cool, but check the temperature first with an accurate thermometer and move the thermometer around the enclosure in the areas the frog often spends time so you know what the temperature is in different parts of the tank. If the temperature is on the cool side, say the 60’s or low 70;s, boosting the temperature a little might help. Also, ensure the substrate is not overly wet. If you squeeze the substrate in your hand it should hold its form but little water should come out. Cool and soggy conditions often lead to health problems in amphibians from tropical climates. Good luck and I hope the frog pulls through,
Devin
I have one Chubby girl right now. I have provided all of the care as listed above: she is currently in a coconut fiber mix soil substrate, clean dechlorinated water, and optimal heat and moisture. However, she hasn’t been acting herself recently. She never comes up from the substrate anymore, I never see her in her water at night like she used to do, and she rarely eats. Her diet mostly consists of supplement dusted crickets and super worms. Her substrate is about 8 inches deep (which I probably need to make it more shallow as it is hard to find her sometimes). When I dig her up to encourage her to eat every few days I always wear a sterile glove that is wet with clean water and dirt as I don’t want to harm her skin. I’m just so worried about her. Is this normal?
It sounds like you are providing great care for your chubby frog. My guess is maybe the frog is responding to slight seasonal changes in the room it is kept in that you might not be aware of. If you are in the northern hemisphere, reduced photoperiod of ambient light in the room from a window coupled with low relative humidity might be affecting activity levels. Alternatively, there could be some health issues you aren’t aware of. Either way, double-check temperature with a thermometer to make sure it is staying within a safe range. Chubby frogs are hardy and will tolerate a wide range of conditions, but if it is too cold or too hot you might see a change in behavior. The only way to know if the temperature is okay is to use a thermometer and move it around where the frog is spending time, in this case in the substrate. If the temperature is below 70F this might be what’s going on. Or, if there is a heat source and above the substrate, it is too hot, then the frog might stay burrowed to escape the heat. Probably, though, there is nothing to worry about and the frog will become more active later as seasons change. Good luck,
Devin
Is it possible that one frog might eat another?! I swear we had three and now I swear there is only two.
No, Asian painted frogs are not known to eat other frogs that I know of. They are microhylids so they have relatively small mouths even though they are big round frogs. Maybe an adult might try to eat a juvenile that just recently completed metamorphosis, but if all your frogs are adults and roughly the same size I don’t think one of your painted frogs ate another. Instead, I would guess one escaped. They are actually very good at climbing and might be able to nudge open a loose-fitting screen cover, especially if there is some driftwood or plants leading up to a corner at the top. Alternatively, the frog might be in the substrate and you haven’t found it yet. Especially when dry, they will burrow down into the substrate or under cage items. You could try taking apart the whole enclosure, sifting through the soil substrate, and also checking within all cage items. Finally, I suggest using a flashlight to look around in the tank (and maybe around the tank) at night. Since they are nocturnal, you will have a hard time finding them during the day. Instead, search around at night with a flashlight. I think either the frog escaped or it is in there and you haven’t found it yet. Good luck,
Devin
What should the average humidity be?
Above 30% is probably best, this way the enclosure won’t dry out too fast. The important thing is to ensure there is always a water dish with clean amphibian-safe water and at least some moist humid areas within the enclosure for the frog to retreat to if conditions are too dry. You can mist the enclosure once a day to help maintain a moist (but not wet or soggy) environment. As long as you have a water dish and a moist substrate, the frog should be fine within a range of humidity levels.
Devin