Dwarf Sand Geckos
Common Names
Dwarf sand gecko, dune gecko, micro gecko, fairy gecko, whip-tail gecko, Sireali sand gecko, elegant gecko
Size and Appearance
A very small gecko. Adults mature to between 3½ and 4 inches (9 and 10 cm). They are patterned in tan, brown, yellow and black. Although there are a number of described species in the genus Stenodactylus, only three are usually available: Stenodactylus doriae, S. petrii, and S. sthenodactylus.
All three species appear similar at first glance but they can be told apart by examining the shape and structure of the head. S. petrii has a slightly rounded head while S. sthenodactylus and S. doriae have angular heads. The snout of S. sthenodactylus is slightly turned up at the end and shorter than that of S. doriae. Males can be told apart from females by the presence of the hemipenal bulge at the base of their tail and an overall more slender appearance.
Distribution, Habitat and Behavior
Arid regions and deserts of northern Africa and the Middle East, where they may inhabit dry riverbeds and other areas with course substrates as well as sandier areas nearby. They are hardy lizards and live in areas that experience extreme drought as well as hot and cold contrasting temperatures. They are both nocturnal and terrestrial and rather than actively hunt prey they instead usually sit and wait for tiny invertebrates to pass by them. Males vocalize.
Availability
Sporadically available and almost always wild-caught. The three species that are found in the trade are rarely differentiated at stores and are usually just found for sale under the common name “dune gecko” or “dwarf sand gecko”. Sometimes gecko hobbyists have success breeding them and in the case that captive-bred individuals can be found for sale it is always preferable to go this route. Check online and with at reptile expos and trade shows.
Housing
A group of three adult geckos can be maintained in a standard 10 gallon aquarium that measures 20 inches long by 10 inches wide by 12 inches high (50 cm by 25 cm by 30 cm). I have not observed problems between males that are kept together in the same enclosure, however if fighting or aggression is observed, male geckos should be separated.
Sand made from calcium carbonate designed for use with reptiles works well as a substrate, though courser sand or rock substrates may also be used. Paper towels are ideal for simpler setups, and are especially useful for acclimating new ones to captivity. If a simple substrate like paper towels is used, it may need to be changed as often as once a week.
Housing for a group of dwarf sand geckos
Dwarf sand geckos, like many geckos, are nocturnal and need an area or two to hide during the day. Hide spots can be created with cork bark, driftwood, slate, or commercial reptile hide boxes. If a heavy hide spot or shelter is used on a substrate of sand, ensure it rests on the bottom of the cage rather than on top of the sand to prevent the hide area from collapsing on the gecko if the gecko digs up the sand that is supporting the heavy object.
Temperature
Provide an ambient daytime temperature range between 75°F and 85°F (24°C to 29°C). Additionally, offer a small hot spot that reaches near 100°F (35°C and 38°C). At night, the temperature in the cage can fall to between 65°F and 75°F (18°C and 24°C). Incandescent light bulbs work best to achieve these temperatures; however heat pads or heat tape may be used instead. Avoid hot rocks and other dangerous heating devices. Established dwarf sand geckos are hardy in regards to the temperature at which they are kept, and cope well with temperatures temporarily outside of their ideal temperature range.
Water
A small, shallow source of water should be made available to captive dwarf sand geckos, but take care that it is not large and does not spill. Once or twice a week part of the cage can be lightly sprayed with water at night to temporarily increase the humidity and provide droplets of water for the geckos to drink from since they may not use a water dish.
Diet
Dwarf sand geckos eat the normal assortment of small feeder insects, including crickets, wax worms, mealworms, mini mealworms, and flightless fruit flies. The majority of their diet should consist of crickets, with other feeders offered every few feedings.
Feed adult geckos anywhere from two to eight feeder insects per gecko several times per week. High quality vitamin and mineral supplements should be dusted onto the feeder insects every couple feedings feedings. Juvenile geckos should have their food supplemented more often.
Hello,
What is a high quality supplement for Dune Geckos’s and where can I get it from?
Thank you.
Seha
Hello! I plan on getting some Steno Petrii soon and I was wondering if you could answer some questions for me.
1. What UVB do they need? And Watt specifically?
2. Is the Stenodactylus Petrii care the same as the Stenodactylus sthenodactylus? If not what are the few differences?
3. Should I quarantine them when I receive them? And how long for?
4. What Heat lamp should I use for them?
5. How long should all the lights be kept on for every day?
6. Can I feed them twice a week just like how I feed my invertebrates or do they need to be fed every day?
I am interested in getting some dwarf sand geckos. What UVB percentage do they need? I don’t want to get a fixture too strong for them. Also, how many could I have in a 30 x 12 x 12 enclosure?
If you use a calcium supplement that contains vitamin D3 and is low or phosphorus-free, you don’t need to provide UVB. Repashy Calcium Plus is a good one. It won’t hurt if you want to put a low-wattage UVB bulb over the tank, but really, the geckos mostly stay hidden and away from lights during the day anyway. You could easily have a trio of one male and two females in that size enclosure, maybe more.
These are a desert species, and are prone to Rickets. They most definitely need a good UVB light on daily, in addition to the dusted crickets. They’re such prolific breeders they have excessive calcium needs as well, One way to get around it and provide nightly viewing is to put a blacklight on the cage. Have it on at night. It stimulates them into normal nighttime and breeding behaviors you’ll find quite interesting. I’ve been keeping and breeding these guys successfully for twelve years
[…] AmphibianCare Care Sheet – a care sheet on Stenodactylus species […]
Hi, I’m just wondering why my dwarf sand gecko’s aren’t eating. I have a juvenile and what I think is an adult, the juvenile has little pigmentation in their skin, and is very small, like 1 and a half inch. The other seems like an average adult, but it just doesn’t want to eat. I’ve been trying to give them meal worms. The juvenile waits a while before attacking the worm, like most gecko’s. However, most of the time, because its so small, it fails at attacking the worm, and gives up, that being said, it did properly kill 1 and eat 1 meal worm. I’ve tried to give the adult super worms and meal worms, both of which it didn’t even try to attack, it just stood there. It did eat a dead super worm when I got it, but I’ve tried to feed it live things, and most times it didn’t even tilt its head towards the worm. I’ve only had these gecko’s for about 4 days now, and they haven’t really ate much at all. Couple that with the fact that they always look fragile and slender, and I think you can sort of get why I’m a bit worried. This is the first time I’ve owned these type of gecko’s, so I don’t really know how they work. If you find this, please respond with as much information as you can to help me. I would look these questions up, but there is very little information about caring for these lizards, and the information that is there doesn’t match up with other sources. Either I’m too worried, or I’m on the track to ignorantly killing my new gecko’s. Thank you very much.
1) Try isolating the two geckos to different tanks so the small one isn’t outcompeted by the larger one. 2) Feed small crickets instead of mealworms. Count the crickets before you put them in the enclosure (at night, they are nocturnal) and then in the morning count how many crickets are left to see if it is eating. 3) Check the temperature and make sure it is warm enough.
Once you are sure both are healthy and eating, and once the smaller one puts on some size, you can put them back together and not worry too much. But, I think if you have some concerns about whether the small one is getting food, isolating it, feeding small crickets (which are going to be easier for it to eat than mealworms), counting out food, and making sure its enclosure is warm enough are a few easy steps to take. Good luck.
Geckos can actually go a long time without eating and live off the nutrients stored in their tail you’ve stated its only been 4 days that you’ve had them so my advice is chill a bit they’ll eat when they get hungry enough and do not ever force feed you’ll literally cause damage and worsen your situation and woll definitely ruing their trust within you… geckos are skittish creatures and depending on if you had them shipped or it was a long ride home after purchase or theyre even wild caught theyre goong to be extremely stressed and may not settle down enough to eat for up to a couple weeks in all reality think about how small they are and all that commotion and how stressful thatd be for you…you may try to just switch up what your offering from time to time cuz geckos can be picky sometimes and maybe they’re just not interested in that particular bug my Asmodeus eats anythingi offer hrs not picky but my Axel on thr other hand used to as a baby love love love crickrts then one day turned up his nose to then and refusrd to eat them at all eventhk they were his favs so wr teied meal worms and dunoa roaches and theyve been a hit frfr…being nocturnal the best time to feed is about when its dusk outside (starting to get dark and the day time animals give way to the lovers of the night) like for me that’s 8 when the automatic timer clicks the lights off for the night So i feed ten fifteen min prior and most of the time as soon as them lights go off they’re coming out to explore and hunt ( just loke in the wild with their natural habits do a lot of research i mena tons and do tour best to try replocate their environment from the wild) so try switching up the time you feed as well then be consistent always feed at that time they’ll become conditioned to when the lights go off they’ll come out over time like clockwork …also I have Chinese geckos they’re nocturnal I think I’ve seen Asmodeus a total of 4 times in the year and half I’ve had him I just allow my geckos to do their own thing with minimal handling like a rough shed for example and they’re needing assistance to remove stuck shed on the feet or of my baby Asmo comes out and I do get to see him I’ll stick my hand down in front of him and allow him to crawl onto me by his choice then go back in his home at will whenever he gives me signs hrs had enough yanno …Axel my leapord gecko on the other hand I leave him br as well a look but don’t touch scenario unless he needs assistance with his feet and stuck shed I feel that when I do handle them it’s on their terms and they’re more willing to be at ease that way as well…also in the case of Asmodeus he’s a cave dweller and a loner but from time to time he’ll allow me his presence which I enjoy to the fullest when i get the opportunity to but to get to see him more on my terms I actually tong feed him cuz he’ll stick the front part of his head and front feet ect to see the food coming and to feed so i can do a visual inspection and ser he’s eating and doing well he eats his fill and goes on bout his business afterwards and I’m cool with that when you have a nocturnal animal you have to make peace with the fact your time will be limited and a lot of people can’t accept that part of ownership with those particular animals so if you can be cool about it and respect the animal trust me over some time it truly pays off and they learn to trust you especially if your tong feeding they see you as the bringer of food and begin to start depending on you and that super big time builds trust in your relationship just take your time with trying to handle them and see them all the time if they feel you trust me they’ll come to you quite literally and thays when ots supet special …and that’s about all I can advise on from my experiences with nocturnal breeds… o truly hope ove helped you in some way good luck
I am wondering if a Stenodactylus sthenodactylus and a stenodactylus petrii (spelling?) can be housed together?
I bet some people have tried it before and maybe it has worked out but I would not do it unless in maybe a pretty large enclosure because they are closely related and might compete with each other for food, territory, etc.
Hi, I recently got a Stenodactylus at a pet store after the worker assured me that it would be extremely easy to take care of them. I have had geckos before, however only crested geckos and leopard geckos, an while these ones seem rather easy, I am struggling to find any solid research on caring for them. Everything I look up, seems to have opposing information on every website I look at. I was also told what I believe to be false information by the guy in the store. He told me that sand was dangerous for these little guys but the more I look into it the less true that seems to be. Basically what I am asking for is of you have any resources for solid information on caring for them.
They are not as widely kept as leopard or crested geckos so there is less information. What I wrote on this care sheet is more or less how I kept a group, though that was maybe 15 years ago, so there might be other options or ideas about how to keep them since I wrote it. I used calcium carbonate sand which you can buy at pet stores and which is made for reptiles. Sand can cause impactions if reptiles eat too much of it but I think it is lower risk than often made out to be, though larger granules which you find in play sand might be riskier than a finer grade. So, the guy at the store was probably just trying to help since if you tell 100 customers sand is okay, probably one will eventually come back with a lizard that is impacted or otherwise had some issues due to sand. Paper towels or newsprint would also work, just make sure to change them more often than you would sand. Hope this helps and good luck.
How long have yours lived?
I think the group I had was maybe from 2005 to 2008? In 2008 I made a large move and gave the geckos to another local hobbyist (along with most of the other animals I kept at the time). I’m not sure what their lifespan is in captivity. Many geckos can live decades in captivity but I don’t know about Stenodactylus.
Mine are and have been raised on natural desert sand. That’s the preferred method now. Calcium Carbonate leads to more inspection issues. My longest liver is still alive at 15 years, most love 10 to 12 years
Such good information, thank you. We have 4 geckos and one is a lot smaller than the others, so we thought about separating him until he gets bigger (he’s also looking very skinny although there’s always live food available). I was wondering if he’d be ok on his own for a while or do they have to always be in groups?
Separating the little one from the group until it is larger is a good idea, that way it won’t be outcompeted for food. It should have no problem living on its own.
Devin
Hey we have a baby dwarf desert gecko at home but lately he won’t eat anything, we feed him small crickets but he just shakes and runs away when we try to feed him now. He has water, heated light and mat under his sand, we also spray water in his cage so there is enough moisture but he just won’t eat lately and is super jumpy and noisy. Any ideas how we could get him to eat?
I have three ideas. First, check the temperature with a thermometer. Move the thermometer around the enclosure to the different places the gecko spends time. If it is not warm enough, the gecko won’t eat. Second, if you are feeding during the day you might not see the gecko eat. Geckos are nocturnal so sometimes they won’t eat during the day while you are watching, at least not until they get used to their new enclosure and settle in. Third, make sure the food items are the right size. If the sand gecko is truly a baby then it might need pinhead crickets or flightless fruit flies. Food items should be about as long as the width of the gecko’s head or so, not much more. If the food items are too large it might be hard for the gecko to eat them.
Good luck,
Devin
Hi, i was wondering, i am doing a school project and i need to find out what eats them in the wild, would you be able to help me at all?
thanks
Good question. I’m not sure. They are nocturnal and inhabit the deserts of North Africa and the Middle East, so you could look at other animals that live in the same environment and are also active at night. I would guess there are almost certainly snakes that eat them, that might be a big one. You could also see if there are small rodents or other mammals that are nocturnal predators in deserts of North Africa. I don’t think birds would be a big threat because birds usually hunt during the day when the geckos are asleep and hiding, but maybe there are owls or some kind of other nocturnal bird of prey which might eat dwarf sand geckos? You will have to do research on the other kinds of animals that live in the desert in North Africa and the Middle East and come up with some ideas about what might feed on sand geckos. Have fun,
Devin
I loved this it’s so helpful since I just got a baby sand gecko thanks alot