Male tomato frogs are smaller than females and grow to around 2 ½ inches (6.4 cm) in length. Female tomato frogs can approach 4 inches (10 cm).
As their common name implies, tomato frogs are round and red like a tomato. Females are a more vibrant red while males are a dark brick red or rust color, or sometimes yellowish. Coloration has been linked to diet. In one study, tomato frogs fed a diet supplemented with a variety of carotenoids were much brighter than those fed a diet without.
Tomato Frog Species
Coloration also depends on species. There are three species of tomato frog: Dyscophus antongilii, D. guineti and D. insularis. The first, D. antongilii, is the brightest red of the three and the true tomato frog, though it is D. guineti that is found in the pet trade. D. insularis is brown and unavailable, although sometimes D. guineti is found for sale at stores or on price lists labelled as this species. D. insularis is the only species that is not red.
Distribution, Habitat and Behavior
Tomato frogs are only found on the island Madagascar. D. guineti, the species in the trade, is found in eastern rainforest. Here it spends the day on the ground in leaf litter, becoming active at night. During the rainy season they breed in swamps and flooded areas along streams. When attacked (or handled) they inflate with air and excrete distasteful secretions from their skin.
Captive-bred tomato frogs are sporadically available from pet stores and dealers. Juveniles produced in captivity are not always bright red but instead may tend towards orange. With proper diet they can develop a brighter red coloration as they mature, especially females. Tomato frogs are also still sourced from the wild for the pet trade. Big, red, adult tomato frogs found for sale are usually wild-caught. Although they tend to adjust well to captivity, it is preferable to purchase captive-bred tomato frogs.
A 15-gallon aquarium that measures about 24 x 13 x 13 inches (61 x 33 x 33 cm) is enough space for a pair or trio of tomato frogs. It is important to offer plenty of ventilation and avoid stagnant conditions. A screen cover is usually the best route to go, although you may consider covering part of it with glass to help maintain humidity levels if the terrarium dries out too quickly.
The most important decision to make about tomato frog housing is the substrate. Most people who keep tomato frogs use either coconut husk fiber or a blended soil mixture. These are the best options because they allow tomato frogs to burrow, retain moisture, and do not spoil quickly. Other options that can work include moist sphagnum moss (make sure it is well compacted and not loose) or large river stones. Avoid using fir bark or small gravel because these substrates can be swallowed and cause health problems.
Whichever substrate you choose, consider placing a layer of leaf litter over it. Indian almond or magnolia leaves are good options because they do not break down quickly and tomato frogs may use them as cover. Leaf litter also helps prevent tomato frogs from accidentally ingesting substrate.
Although they do not appear especially active during the day, tomato frogs wake up and move around at night. Provide perches and cover in the form of driftwood and cork bark flats. Live plants can also be incorporated into housing for tomato frogs, but choose the kind with care. Small or delicate plants will be trampled at night. Artificial plants can be used instead of live ones if desired.
Temperature and Humidity
Tomato frogs are tolerant of a range of temperatures. Most days the enclosure should stay between 75°F and 80°F (24°C and 27°C) with a drop at night to as low as 65°F (18°C). Use an accurate thermometer to measure the temperature and move it around in different parts of the cage. If heating is needed, use a small low-wattage heat lamp.
The humidity level in the cage should remain high, somewhere above 70% most of the time. You can accomplish this by misting the terrarium lightly with water once a day. Pay attention to the moisture content of the substrate as well. Usually if the substrate is appropriately moist (not overly wet, not too dry) the humidity level will be within a good range as well.
Use a water dish large enough for tomato frogs to fit in and at least as deep as the frog. Most tomato frogs soak in the water dish at night, so it is a good idea to make a routine of changing the water every morning. If tap water from a municipality is used, treat it with an aquarium water conditioner to remove chlorine and chloramines before use.
Although sometimes compared to horned (pacman) frogs because of their round appearance, tomato frogs have a much smaller mouth. This means they cannot eat such large prey. Live crickets should make up most of a tomato frog diet. The crickets should be about the size of the distance between the tomato frog’s eyes or slightly smaller. Other food items include earthworms and wax worms, phoenix worms or other insect larvae. These other foods should be fed in a small feeding dish and substituted for crickets a couple times each month.
Feed around 3-6 crickets per tomato frog several times each week. Tomato frogs are best fed at night when active, although most will also happily eat during the day. Pay attention to how much frogs are eating and if there are still crickets running around the cage after a few hours. This is a sign you are overfeeding the frogs.
Nutritional deficiencies occur if crickets and other food items are not coated in a high quality vitamin and mineral supplement before use. This should be dusted onto food items before offering them to tomato frogs at every other feeding (or every feeding for juveniles). It also is recommended to use a carotenoid supplement on a regular schedule to help maintain and improve coloration.
Hello! I have a young tomato frog named Cherry, who has recently been behaving strangely.
Today, I found her in the corner looking a bit bloated. It appeared she had secreted something, since her back was a bit pale. When I went to carefully pick her up, she spit up a bunch of water.
I am very concerned and don’t know what I can do.
She seems to be eating regularly, since the crickets I give her are always gone after I feed her. Her temperature and humidity is normal as well, though the last two days have been pretty cold out. I make sure her cage temperature is always between 70 and 85.
Please, any advice you have would be appreciated. Thank you!
Your have the right idea–double check the environmental conditions in the terrarium and make sure everything is right. Move the thermometer around in the enclosure and make sure it rises into the mid-high 70s (or into the low 80s) during the day. Also check the moisture content of the substrate. If it is too wet that can cause problems, especially wet/dirty/cool conditions together often lead to health issues. Bloating can be caused by many different issues, so it is hard to figure out the exact cause. Sometimes there is an underlying bacterial infection that developed due to poor husbandry, and that contributes to the bloat, other times there are other issues going on. My advice would be to check the conditions you are providing again make sure it is not too cold (or hot) and not too wet (or dry). Try also observing the frog at night when it is active and seeing how it gets around. If it is still feeding and behaving normally at night, I probably wouldn’t worry too much. On the other hand, if it is lethargic or uncoordinated in its movements, it is time to contact a veterinarian. Good luck.
Hi, I’m wondering if three female tomato frogs in a 18x18x12 is okay? And is providing uvb something you’d recommend?
Tomato frogs don’t need UVB but you could provide a bulb that produces a low-level if you want (it won’t hurt). The terrarium is probably a little too small (in my opinion) for the long-term but would be fine for a couple of months or for one frog.
Hi, this is a great site with a lot of good info. We just bought an adult tomato frog and I believe we’ve done all the research to make him happy. One question, can he go a day or two without eating? I’m just wondering if we take a trip over the weekend, do I need to have someone come and feed him while we are out. The store we bought him from says they fed him 2-3 crickets a day, and some days he wouldn’t eat those. Thanks for the help.
I’m glad you found the article helpful. Leaving the frog for 2-3 days should not be a problem. A healthy adult tomato frog can go one week without food, probably longer but that might be stressful. The week before leaving, feed a little extra (as much as it wants to eat) to fatten it up ahead of time.
hello! I’ve just gotten two new baby tomato frogs. They were doing great the first week and were eating and exploring normally. They are in a 40gal tank with cocoa fiber substrate and a bit of forest floor sprinkled in, as well as some moss that I bought. They have two hideaways and two water dishes as well as a light and a heat lamp (I am in a basement, temperature is inconsistent down here sometimes). I mist them regularly. I have fed them two crickets each a day the first week, two of those days they were dusted with Reptocal. I am now on the second week and the first baby frog is eating normally and acting normal. The second frog however seems to have something going on. It started a few days ago – I noticed he seemed a bit unstable. The next day when I went to feed him, he seemed a bit stressed and was just hopping around. I don’t believe he ate. The third day he seemed to have more energy but still had a hard time getting around and I didn’t feel safe with them near the big water dishes, so I closed them off in their own area with a tiny water dish not too full. He still wasn’t wanting to eat. We are on the next day now and I have noticed that he has trouble hopping around and has flipped over onto his back, showing his belly, twice. When I woke up this morning he was like that (not sure for how long). He didn’t seem to be able to get up on his own so I helped him up. He is barely moving now but breathing normally. I have not attempted to feed him yet today. Any ideas on what this could be/what I’m doing wrong? Thanks.
What is the temperature in the part of the enclosure where the frogs spend most of their time? A 40 gallon tank is a great size for adult tomato frogs but kind of large for babies. You can keep two babies in a 10 gallon aquarium. The smaller tank will allow them to more easily find food. Also, it might be easier to regulate temperature in a smaller enclosure. In a large tank like a 40 gallon, the temperature near a heat lamp might read 75-80F but then down near the bottom on the other side of the tank where the frogs are it could be too cold. Cold, damp conditions often lead to health problems, or in your situation since the frogs are new, if one frog was already suffering from a problem it might not be able to recover if it is a little cold or too wet.
When frogs appear uncoordinated/disoriented and flip over on their back, the first thing that comes to my mind is some kind of bacterial infection. There are all sorts of microorganisms in frog tanks but usually they are not a problem. However, if the environmental conditions or not quite right and/or a frog is stressed, its immune system will weaken and it may develop an infection. But, uncoordinated movements can also be caused by exposure to a contaminant or a water quality issue, or even a nutritional problem, but in those cases I would have expected the other frog to also show symptoms. If the sick frog has red/pinkish coloration on its ventral side (for example: https://lafeber.com/vet/wp-content/uploads/Red-Leg-image-Harkewicz.png) along with the uncoordinated movements, it is most likely some kind of bacterial infection. Cold, damp, dirty conditions plus stress are often at the root of those kind of health problems, but since your frogs are new, perhaps it was something that the frog already had and when it was moved to its new home the stress plus cool temperatures weakened its immune system enough for the infection to take over.
You would need to consult with a veterinarian for a diagnosis. If the vet diagnoses it as a bacterial infection, they could provide some antibiotic baths that might help clear it.
Whatever the problem is, the best thing to do now is isolate the sick frog from the other frog and keep it in a clean enclosure with the correct environmental conditions. Use a thermometer to check the temperature throughout both enclosures. If it is not getting to the high 70s or low 80s during the day, increase the temperature by moving the heat lamp closer or adding an additional heat source. Also, make sure it is not too wet (or dry).
Good luck. I hope the frog pulls through.
Hello again and thanks for the reply!
To answer a couple of your questions/concerns –
The temperature with the heat lamp having been on regularly now (where they spend most of their time) is about 76F at night and more like 77-78F during the day. I put in another thermometer so I could get a more accurate reading as you had mentioned.
About your concerns regarding the tank size – I realize it is large, but I do not actually feed them in their home tank. I individually put them into a small (1-2gal) faunarium and they are able to easily feed and get enough to eat this way. Once they are full I put them back into their home tank (the 40gal). The 40gal tank is the only suitable one I have for both frogs available at the moment.
I did exactly what you said – quarantined the other frog for a while and kept him in the conditions recommended. He has actually improved a lot. I have a full-time job as well as college, my exotic vet is 30 min away and I do not have a vehicle so I unfortunately have not been able to get out to the exotic vet. Just calling them was not really enough to be able to understand what was going on with him either. However, today I found him burrowing and have kept a close eye on him for a while and he seems to feel a lot better. No more signs of stress at the moment.
As of right now he looks a lot better, doesn’t seem stressed and is actually moving about and doing normal baby frog things. Thanks SO much for your advice and taking the time to reply. I really appreciate it.
I will continue to monitor him.
That’s great news. Glad to hear the frog is doing better. Enjoy them,
Iv’e had bad luck with my first tomato frog . He ended up passing away. I did so much research and I also work at a Vet’s office and I followed my exotic vet’s advice and he still passed away. I waited a a few months to heal my heart and I went and purchased a bigger frog a week ago. The first few days he was hopping around and crazy , I was so happy but now the last couple of days he is a duller color I believe and he hardly moves from one spot. I know they are nocturnal but I stay up pretty late at night with his lights off and I still do not see movement. I have him alone in a 10 gallon with the coconut fiber stuff and a shallow water dish that I use a fish purifying water drop to purify the water I put in the dish and in the water I use to spray him. His temperatures on the hot side is around 80-84 but he never goes to the hot side. My humidity gauge reads at 90 but I do not believe it , I think its because I have the gauge directly on the wet substrate. I mist 2x a day. He also has moss and hideouts and such. He does squeak when I gently poke him but I almost never handle him. He has eaten crickets and he did eat a big hornworm a few days ago. Would eating something too big cause issues? Would they eat something too big? I am just really worried about him and want the best life for him. Please any advice if you could .
It sounds like the care you are providing is fine. If it was an adult when you bought it, it probably was wild-caught. Sometimes ones that are taken from the wild are not in very good condition when they arrive since they have spent the last couple of months going from a collector, to an exporter, to an importer, to a pet store, and finally to you. So, you might have started with an unhealthy frog last time. The most important thing is the frog’s environment, especially temperature, cleanliness, and the moisture content of the substrate. From what you describe, it sounds like you checked all of the boxes. I don’t think the food is an issue.
I have a tomato frog that turns upside down constantly. Is this normal? My other one never does this. It just seems odd to me. He still eats & moves around but I find him upside down alot
No, that’s not normal. Uncoordinated movements in amphibians can be caused by bacterial infections, contaminants in the environment or water, or some kind of neurological damage from something else. How long has it been doing that? If the frog started turning upside down in the last few weeks or months, I would isolate the unhealthy frog from the other one, change the substrate, clean the tank, and check to make sure all environmental conditions are in line with the care sheet above. Especially check the temperature and make sure it is warm enough and that the substrate is clean and not oversaturated with water. If the temperature is too cool or the substrate is too wet, those conditions especially could lead to issues like bacterial infections which can sometimes manifest in uncoordinated movements like what you describe your frog doing. On the other hand, if your frog has been flipping over on its back for a year or more and the other one hasn’t, maybe it is some kind of damage that happened long ago, like for instance if there was some contaminant at some point that damaged that frog neologically. My guess, though, is there is some underlying health issue like a bacterial infection. If there is a good vet in the area that knows about amphibians, you could take it to the vet or at least reach out for help and they might be able to diagnose the problem and prescribe some antibiotics if turns out to be an infection. Good luck, hope the frog makes it.
iv had my tomato frog for acouple months now, but its always been extremely active. alot of the time she tends to jump towards the wall of the tank or jumps at the base of the wall to try and what seems like get out. she just jumps towards the wall and hits it acouple times, then will move around the tank to the other side and do it again. iv tried covering up all the sides in hopes that the behavior will stop just incase she sees anything through the tank and tries to get. she doesnt do it constantly but she does it quite a bit, especially when shes not burrowed in her moss and coco fiber. i dont want her to end up with a broken leg or a head problem, does anyone know how to solve and/or keep her from doing this? or what the problem might be? the tank is 2 feet high, 1 1/2 feet wide, aswell as long. humidity is the standard 70-75, temp is around 75-80 depending on hot and cool side temps aswell as a water pool to sit in. she just had her first shed (with me at least) last night, but the behavior started before that. (just thought id include standard info aswell)
It sounds like you are providing good care for your tomato frog. The temperature and environment sound right on. How long have you had the frog? Sometimes it can take new frogs a few weeks or even longer to really settle into a new environment. If you have had the frog for several months, then my only thought/suggestion to stop the behavior is to tape some black paper or poster board onto the outside of the glass on three of four sides. Frogs don’t really understand glass and they sometimes will try and jump through it. You could also try adding more cover. For example, if you have a water dish and one hide available for the frog now you might try adding a couple of pieces of cork bark or a plant or something to break up the environment and help the frog feel more secure.
iv had her since mid july. ill try doing that! i did have a pathos in with her since those were safe for frogs but the crickets id target feed her would always hide in it. ill get her some more hides and more moss just incase, and ill try the poster boards. thanks for the help! i just didnt know if there was something wrong with her or if its unusual.
I just got a baby tomato frog, he eats two Small crickets a day and I have the enclosure set up just as he needs with a 2 inch substrate and a little bit of moss on top with cork bark for him to hide under and a water shallow dish, he always stays under the cork bark In the exact same spot for at least a week in a row and I have never seen him out and about or in the water dish, I tried to put crickets in his cage but he won’t eat them so I have to feed them to him by Tongs because I don’t want him to go hungry and I take the crickets out a couple hours later making sure he did eat but he won’t so that’s why I feed him by the tongs, I’m not sure why he stays in the same spot forever and never moves I just want to make sure he is comfortable.
Nice strategy using tongs to feed the frog. It sounds like you are providing good care. It also sounds like typical tomato frog behavior, at least during the day. Try using a flashlight to look in the tank a half hour or so after the light has gone off and it has been dark in the room. Often tomato frogs will move around after dark, especially to go to the water dish to take a soak.
i am back again with another question, due to my overprotectiveness? i guess you could call it, with my froggy. recently iv noticed alittle white line on my tomato frogs face, its right below her right eye. its a small linear line of white, then it goes to orange and stops at a little white dot before her right nostril. theres no other spots on her body, nor are there any abnormal bumps/sores. iv just noticed it this week, but just grew alot of concern today. she frequently jumps into the side of her tank (she doesn’t have the biggest brain) so i just thought it was alittle bit of trauma to the skin due to her hitting her head alittle bit during impact. but i did alot of research over this tonight and everything iv gotten is alarming me. i dont know if i should be worried and take her to the vet, or if its something normal/caused by her jumping around. shes also not been eating alot, as far as i can see. i target feed her right before i go to bed about 2-3 crickets coated in calcium powder. iv also tried feeding her waxworms from tongs and in a small bowl for her to feed when she likes. she doesnt look to have lost weight and still is very active at night. humidity ranges from 70-80, i mist the tank 2-3 times a day depending on the substrate moisture, there is a cool end and hot end of the tank aswell, which goes from high 70’s to low 80’s (involves a heat pad aswell, recommended by the petstore ONLY on warm side of tank) its a 18x18x20 something, and only has moss it in since i have only had her for less than a month, i wanted to get her comfy before adding decor. substrate is also 3+ inches and she does burrow during the day. water bowl is on cold end of tank and is cleaned once a day, filled with dechlorinated tap water . if anyone could help me out thatd be amazing!
FORGOT TO ADD- her tank has been cleaned and redone already, and humidity is normally 70%-75% during the day and night. i realized i put 80% which isnt the median humidity and isnt as common in her tank
Can you upload a photo of the white line and link to it in the comments?
If you think the white mark on the frog’s face is from damage while trying to escape through the glass or bumping into the glass at night, that could be a problem. Adding more cover can help. Another even easier fix is to tape black poster board or an aquarium background to the outside of three sides of the tank. If you are sure the frog is causing damage to itself, you can even move it to a box without transparent sides or temporarily cover all four sides with a background until it settles in. Then again, maybe the white mark is not trauma but something else.
Overall, it sounds like the care you’re providing is fine. The only thing I might change if it were me is the heating element. If you think about a tomato frog in the wild and its habitat, the leaf litter and soil will be cooler the deeper you go. For burrowing amphibians like tomato frogs, it is kind of backward to have the heat coming from below rather than from above. Some heating pads also get too hot for use with amphibians. But, it sounds like the tank is within a safe temperature range so I wouldn’t worry too much about it at the moment. Maybe down the line switch to a low-wattage heat lamp and turn off the pad.
i just got a tomato frog yesterday, and all shes been doing is sitting in her water dish almost 90% of the time. she didnt have one in the tank where i got her from, so i dont know if i should be worried or not. temp stays at 75 F while humidity goes between 70-75%. i also have the substrate at 2+ inches for burrowing. i just wanna make sure this isnt gonna lead to a problem with her health or is a sign of already existing issues. is she just dehydrated, or would this be a sign of stress considering i did just bring her home a day ago? alot of forums iv searched for dont have these answers for tomato frogs specifically. the only time iv handled her is when i have to take her out of her dish and clean it. thanks!
That sounds like a good setup. The frog is probably happy to have a water source since it didn’t have one at the store. Tomato frogs in captivity should always have access to water so it is pretty bad the store did not provide a water dish for the frog. My guess is the frog is just excited or stimulated that there is now water available.
New frogs will also often behave in strange ways the first few days while acclimating to new surroundings so I wouldn’t be concerned at this point. That said, soaking in the water dish for long periods of time can be a sign of a problem too. For example, if the enclosure is too hot frogs will often spend time soaking in the water or burrowed next to a water dish where it is a little cooler. Terrestrial frogs also sometimes soak constantly in their water dish if they are suffering from a health problem.
In your situation, though, because the frog is new and it did not have access to water for some time before you brought it home, I think the constant soaking is probably not an issue for your tomato frog. I bet after a few more days it will find a dark secluded spot to burrow down and hide in during the day, and then at night, you will probably see it back in the water or in other parts of the tank, which is more normal tomato frog behavior.
shes stopped constantly soakinh, thank u for help! but what im starting to notice shes alittle brown. i did some more research and everythings saying that means ur frog is unhappy. i dont know what she could be unhappy about, unless the 2+ inches of substrate isn’t enough to burrow in since i haven’t really seen her trying to burrow more than once or twice. is there anything else that could be making her turn alittle bit brown? the humidity sometimes goes alittle bit over 80 if im not careful. unless its just a bit of residue from the substrate, i dont know what could be causing her to be unhappy/turning brown. iv left her be to acclimate to her new tank by covering sides of her tank and reducing the time iv been inside her tank to clean her water or feed. any suggestions?
Good, glad to hear it. I would just give the frog some time to settle in. Frogs change color for a lot of reasons, for example, temperature, light intensity, stress, etc. My guess is your frog just needs some time to adjust to its new surroundings. Double-check the temperature and make sure it is not over 80F during the day or below 65F at night. Move the thermometer around the enclosure, especially where you see the frog spending time. Also, check the moisture content of the substrate. If you are using soil or coconut husk fiber, squeeze some in your hand. The substrate should be moist enough to hold its form but you don’t want lots of water dripping out like a sponge. If it is too wet or too hot that might be contributing to the color change, but really, my guess is the frog just needs time to adjust and settle in. Do your best not to disturb it, give it a couple of weeks, and I bet it will improve. Another though, juvenile tomato frogs often look browner than adults so it could be that it is not adult. Also, long-term you should consider using a carotenoid supplement like Repashy Super Pig. Carotenoids not only affect the color of amphibians but also seem to be important for their health so dusting food items in a carotenoid supplement a few times a month can really help improve coloration. Good luck.
I have a hatchling tomato frog and i know you’ve mentioned the amount of crickets but i was wondering if that applies to hatchlings as well? i’m sorry, i just haven’t found much of anything for hatchlings and i’m curious if it’s the same for them. Thanks
You can feed juvenile tomato frogs as much as they will eat. If it is the first few months after they completed metamorphosis then it is best to feed every day. After you put crickets in, check back in 15-20 minutes. If they are all gone, feed more. They might eat 10-15+ small crickets a day, maybe more, depending on the size of the cricket and the size of the frog (and also how much it ate over the last couple of days).
Can they be housed with other species of frogs/lizards
Stick to just tomato frogs. They are bright orange/red to warn predators of their toxic nature. They also have big appetites (although relatively small mouths for their size), but still, in a terrarium with another kind of small frog or lizard I could see problems arising. Good luck,
Help! My tomato frog hasn’t eaten in a month. I regularly feed at night and the appropriate amount. My frog is still vibrant and hasn’t lost weight. Is this something to worry about?
That is a long time, but I wouldn’t worry if the frog appears healthy. It is possible your frog is eating but you aren’t noticing. Try counting the crickets you put in the enclosure at night and then try finding them all in the morning. Maybe your frog is eating enough, though not all.
One recommendation, though, is to check the temperature with a quality thermometer. Move the thermometer to the locations the frog usually sits. If the temperature is below 70F this might explain why the tomato frog isn’t feeding like it used to. If this is the case, try bumping the temperature up with a low wattage (probably only 25-40 watt unless the tank is very tall) red or black heat lamp so that part of the setup under the light reaches around 80F. If the light is drying the tank out too much, move the enclosure to a new room where it is warmer and temperature stays in the mid 70’s.
My guess is that because it is winter now the temperature of the room where your tomato frog is kept has fallen a few degrees and slowed the frog’s metabolism. Now your frog is not as active or interested in feeding as it used to be. So long as the tomato frog appears healthy it probably isn’t too large of a problem, although if it actually has not eaten in a month that is a pretty long time and I would expect it to look thin. Realize also that thin tomato frogs sometimes inflate their body with air when disturbed, creating the appearance of a fat frog even though the frog might be thin. Good luck,
Ok so I really need help I have a tomato frog his name is puff daddy and one night I was gone my cat got a hold of him still dont know how but now he has cuts and look like air bubble on his back/side is there anything I can do to help my poor baby???
Oh no! I’m sorry to hear that. Yes, there are some things you can do. First though make sure your cat is okay. Tomato frogs secrete noxious slime from their skin when disturbed so if your cat shows any unusual behavior or appears to be suffering take the cat to a veterinarian immediately. A visit to the vet is also the best thing for the frog. If you are able to and have a veterinarian near you that is experienced with amphibians take the frog to the vet.
In the meantime, set the tomato frog up in a simple enclosure with moist paper towels as a substrate. Change the moist paper towels every day, and in addition to a substrate include some cover like cork bark curls or pieces of driftwood for the frog to shelter under. There should also be an easily accessed shallow dish of water safe for amphibians. You want to keep the enclosure very clean right now and ensure it is within an appropriate temperature range, or even a little warmer than usual (high 70’s to low 80s would be good but not above 85F). Avoid feeding the frog for a week or so and when you do start to feed only put one or two crickets in a time, removing them if they go uneaten after a few hours.
A topical antibiotic ointment like original Neosporin can be dabbed onto open wounds on amphibians once or twice a day to help prevent infection. It is important that the ointment does NOT have any additives for pain relief in it, just use the simple original kind. Try not to handle the frog while applying the ointment to reduce stress. Instead just take a cotton swab and dab the ointment onto the wounds.
Depending on the severity of the trauma the frog might recover on its own so long as the environment is kept clean and stress is kept to a minimum, but the best option is to make an appointment with a vet and take the frog in for an appointment (if you have a good exotics vet nearby). There may be better ways to treat a frog suffering from trauma than topical antibiotic ointments and a veterinarian will know what to do.
Good luck and I hope the frog recovers,