Red-eyed Tree Frog
Species
Red-eyed tree frog (Agalychnis callidryas)
Size
Adults measure 2 to 3 inches (5 cm to 7.6 cm) in length. Males are smaller than females.
Appearance
As their name suggests, the most apparent feature of red-eyed tree frogs is their red eyes. Certain southern populations have darker burgundy-colored eyes. Their dorsum and legs are green, and the sides of their body are striped in blue and yellow. The shade and amount of blue or yellow varies between populations. To compliment their red-eyes, they have bright orange feet with large toe pads. The ventral side of red-eyed tree frogs is a solid white or crème color. There are also several commercially bred color morphs including xanthic/lutino, black, and albino.
Distribution, Habitat and Behavior
Central America, from southern Mexico through Panama with reports also from northern Colombia. They live in and around humid forests, especially near ponds and other water bodies where they breed. Up to 100 or more eggs are laid in clumps on vegetation that hangs over water. Red-eyed tree frogs are nocturnal and spend the days asleep on leaves where they conceal their bright coloration.
Availability
Frequently available from pet stores, pet dealers, and breeders. Red-eyed tree frogs sourced from the wild usually originate from Nicaragua. Captive-bred stock is a better option and can easily be located through private breeders or dealers if not available locally.
When selecting a red-eyed tree frog, purchase one born in captivity over those that are wild-caught. Captive-bred red-eyed tree frogs are generally healthier, less stressed, and easier to care for initially. Avoid purchasing frogs that are smaller than ¾ inch (1.9 cm) in length.
Do not purchase frogs that have patchy coloration (their dorsal side should be uniformly green), and pass up any individual that displays unusual behavior, such as sleeping on the ground or having difficulty shedding its skin. Bacterial infections and internal parasites are two common problems associated with wild-caught red-eyed tree frogs that may need the attention of an experienced veterinarian.
Housing
A standard 20 gallon aquarium that measures 24 inches long by 12 inches wide by 16 inches high (61 cm by 30 cm by 40 cm) is large enough for two to four adult frogs. Young frogs can be kept in smaller enclosures. A secure screen cover is essential to prevent escapes.
Possible substrates include coconut husk fiber, sphagnum moss, or moist paper towels. Red-eyed tree frogs can also be kept in living terrariums that contain live plants. Some breeders also have success using no substrate at all, especially in enclosures outfitted with a drain which can easily be hosed down with water regularly for cleaning. Small gravel and pieces of bark should be avoided because they may cause problems if accidentally ingested while the frogs are feeding.
In addition to a substrate, red-eyed tree frogs should be provided with surfaces on which to sleep and climb on. Live or artificial plants that have large leaves and will support the weight of a frog are best. Driftwood, cork bark tubes, vines, bamboo poles, and pieces of PVC pipe can also be used. Provide a photoperiod of 10-12 hours per day with a flourescent light positioned above the enclosure, and consider offering low levels of UVB if possible.
A vertically-oriented terrarium designed for Agalychnis with a false-bottom, sphagnum moss substrate, and lots of sturdy plants.
Temperature and Humidity
Red-eyed tree frogs are native to humid forests in Central America and the temperature and humidity level that they are kept at should reflect this environment. During the day the temperature can range from 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C). At night the temperature can drop by 5-10°F. Avoid drafty conditions where the temperature fluctuates widely, keeping the enclosure away from doors or windows. A small infrared light bulb can be used to heat the terrarium during both the day and night if necessary.
Maintain moderate to high humidity levels, usually above 60%. This can be accomplished by misting the cage with water daily. In particularly dry households or times of the year, you may find it necessary to restrict ventilation by taping a piece of glass or plastic wrap over part of the screen cage cover.
Water
A source of clean water should be available to frogs at all times. If tap water from a municipality is used it should be treated with an aquarium water conditioner to remove chlorine, chloramines and heavy metals. Change the water daily.
Diet
Red-eyed tree frogs can be fed a diet that consists largely of crickets. Flying insects such as moths or houseflies can be substituted for crickets every few feedings. Wax worms, small silkworms and other insect larvae are also accepted, but should be placed in a feeding dish so that they are noticed before they have time to hide or burrow into the substrate.
Feed adult red-eyed tree frogs around three to six food items every two to three days. Juveniles should be fed daily. Adults should have their food coated with high quality vitamin and mineral supplements once every couple feedings, while juveniles should have their food dusted with supplements daily. It’s best to feed at night when red-eyed tree frogs are active and on the hunt, although frogs will learn to wake up and feed during the day after some time.
Hi, i’m looking to get red eyed tree frogs in the next month and am trying to accumulate everything i’ll need. i’ve done an extended amount of research and am still left with a few questions. is a heating pad necessary? also, will a low wattage grow light suffice? i am going to keep them in and 18 x 18 x 25 terrarium with live plants as well as isopods and springtails but i’ve read that i should leave the springtails and isopods in the terrarium by themselves for a few weeks before the frogs. is that correct??
That sounds like a perfect size setup for a couple of red-eyed tree frogs. There are many different ways to set up the enclosure. As long as the temperature, humidity, and water quality are suitable, it doesn’t matter too much how you do it. Personally, I would suggest a low-wattage heat lamp instead of a heating pad. If you think about what a wild tree frog experiences, heat comes down from above rather than from below. Also, depending on the brand, some heating pads get too hot and need to be used with a thermostat. Heating pads also tend to dry out terrariums. Still, some people use them with success so if that is what you want to try you can do it (just make sure the surface the pad is attached too isn’t too hot).
I suggest getting the tank set up how you like it and then using a thermometer to measure the temperature throughout the enclosure, both during the day and night. Up near the top towards the light source it can get up to 85F or even a little warmer during the day. Down near the substrate, it should be cooler in the low to mid-70’s. At night, the temperature throughout the setup can drop into the low 70’s or high 60’s. It sounds like you are setting up a kind of naturalist terrarium with the isopods and springtails, so if you have live plants and use lighting for the plants, try measuring the temperature throughout the tank without any added heating element. If it is getting into the low-mid 80’s up top near the light source during the day, it is already warm enough and you don’t need anything else. On the other hand, if during the day the temperature is only in the low 70’s or even cooler, then you should add a small heat lamp. Probably something like 25-40 watt incandescent heat lamp is warm enough, or you could even just try one of those compact fluorescent UVB spiral bulbs (UVB is not required but also doesn’t hurt, so if you can do heat and UVB in a single spiral bulb why not). All lights that produce visible light should go off at night. If it is getting too cold at night (below 68F or so) you can use a red light and leave that red light on throughout the day and night. The main thing is to make sure the temperature is correct, and how you do that is up to you.
For the isopods and springtails, you don’t need them, but if you want to add them you can. The reason to add them a few weeks before frogs is to allow their populations to grow to a large number before frogs start eating them, but since red-eyed tree frogs are too large to eat springtails and likely won’t bother with isopods either (or at least not enough to impact the population) you don’t really have to worry about it. If it were me, I would keep the setup more simple with just moist sphagnum moss over a false-bottom (like in the picture above) with maybe some leaf litter on top of the moss, then a water dish, and one or two potted plants with large leaves for the frogs to sleep on during the day.
Will a 12 by 12 by 20 ” sized zilla Terarium be of for 2 Red Eyed Tree Frogs? I found a really good deal at a local petstore on a 12 by 12 by 20 sized terarium and was just curious if it be a good sized also was wondering if a nano type fixture would be good but I’ve also been looking into the zoo med tropical kit that is 12 by 12 by 18 for a set up it comes with substrate and a Day time blue heat bulb I was curious if either of these type enclosures would be good also as a possible temporary set up for 1-2 Juvenile Whites Tree Frogs thanks
You could keep juvenile tree frogs (either White’s or red-eyes) in a 12 x 12 x 20 size terrarium but for adult frogs of either species the larger 18 x 18 x 24 size is better.
Hi,
I have some small red eyes in a big tank. About a fingernail tall. I feed them daily. I see them hunt but don’t know if the catch the small crickets. Do i take them out afther dark and put them in a smaller tank or box to feed? The are alert and jump an walk. Thanks in advance.
Try keeping them in a relatively small enclosure that is set up simply (moist paper towel or bare bottom substrate, a potted plant, and a water dish) and then count how many crickets you feed before the lights go off and how many are left in the morning. If they aren’t eating my first guess is the crickets are too large. Feed foods that are about the length of the width of the frog’s head. The other possibility is maybe the temperature is off, but in this case, because young frogs are kind of sensitive probably you would be seeing some mortality as well and not just lack of appetite. The other indication that frogs aren’t eating is their body condition. A small red-eyed tree frog that hasn’t eaten in a few days or week will look very thin. This might be hard to notice because they already kind of look fragile, but compare the frog’s condition with how it was when you acquired it. Does it look about the same? If so, I wouldn’t worry about it. Moving them to a different feeding container probably isn’t needed, and might be stressful too. Most likely the frogs are feeding just fine but not while you are watching.
Hi,
Just a little update;)
The are doing fine. Think the had to adjust some more. I see them hunt and eat now. And i find perfect droppings. I never know I could be happy whit some frog manure haha.
Thanks for the advice!
Oh good, happy to hear it. Enjoy the frogs.
Devin
Hey, I have a red eyed tree frog but I can’t seem to keep the humidity and the temperature balanced what should I do?
Focus on getting the temperature within a safe range first because this is more important than humidity. Keep the terrarium 75-85F during the day, with a small drop at night. Move the thermometer around the terrarium and check the temperature in different locations. If the thermometer is just near the ground you might think it is too cool when really it is warm enough, or if the thermometer is up near the light you might think it is too hot when really it is fine.
If you need to heat the enclosure, try a low-wattage incandescent light bulb. If it is too hot, raise the light a few inches above the terrarium. If it is not warm enough, add another light or increase the wattage of the bulb.
Once the temperature is within a good range then misting the terrarium once a day usually will provide enough moisture and humidity in all but the driest conditions. In the winter and if the room the terrarium is kept in is particularly dry, you can restrict ventilation to help prevent the enclosure from drying out, although usually this is not necessary.
Devin
iv’e had my red eyed tree frog for about a year now,eating well doing fine.but the last few weeks he’s not been getting up so much and not eating.humidity is between 75-85.temp is about 26.do they sometimes go in to hidernation.don’t know what iv’e done wrong.
It’s good you noticed this change in behavior. No, red-eyed tree frogs don’t hibernate but at cooler temperatures their metabolism will slow and they will require less food. Sometimes small changes in household temperatures this time of year or more/less daylight coming in the room through a window and affecting photoperiod can seem to cause frogs in captivity to change behavior as well.
If the frog isn’t eating at all, though, that could be a sign that something is really off. Are you sure the frog is not eating? Count the crickets you put in at night and then try to find them all in the morning. If you find all the crickets leftover, the frog is not eating. Also, double check temperature with a different thermometer, and move it around down near the substrate and up near the light. Make sure it isn’t too hot/cold.
If you notice symptoms of poor health in addition to not eating it’s probably time to take the frog to a veterinarian. For example, if the frog appears to be bloated/swollen, very thin, coloration is patchy or different than usual, the frog seems lethargic and does not respond quickly when disturbed, clouded eyes, etc. If there are signs of poor health in addition to the lack of appetite and decrease in behavior, then it is definitely time for a trip to the vet.
Good luck,
Devin
My dad and I really want one!!!! I was wondering what I could name the red eyed tree frog if I ever get one. Thx!
can different type tree frogs be kept in the same vivarium; if so, which ones are good choices. was thinking of red eyed and some other
Hi Patsy,
It’s not usually a good idea because 1) it can be difficult to meet the care requirements of two different types of tree frogs when housed in one vivarium because not all tree frogs require the same care and 2) there may be competition between the two species over resources like food or space. If you do attempt to keep two different species of tree frogs together, make sure to have a very large enclosure. Also, monitor them carefully while being housed separately for some months before introducing them to the same setup. Really, though, it is usually best for the frogs to keep them separately, with each species to its own enclosure designed specifically for that kind of frog.
Here is an article with more information that may help you decide what to do: https://amphibiancare.com/2008/05/21/mixed-species-dilemma/
Devin
I have green tree frogs and Gray tree frogs in the same cage I also have fire belly toads in there as well there are four green four grays and six fire bellys so yes they can live together
How many years have they all lived together? What size enclosure?
You should not keep fire bellies with the others as their skin secretes a toxin irritating to other types of frogs.